Cornwall to Norfolk
Unbelievably it’s been two months since our last blog! Since the updates covering Morocco, Italy, Singapore and some funny moments, we’ve been busy exploring the UK with some necessary rest days (yes, travelling and being on permanent leave can be exhausting). Therefore, we have been remiss in giving an update, being gently reminded this morning (mentioning no names eh, Carmen, oops), so this update we’re going to split in two covering our arrival in the UK between mid-March through to end of April when we left Norfolk.
We’re currently enjoying a quiet day indoors in the Scottish Highlands, and are making a concerted effort to get something to you, fortunately we do have a daily trip diary being recorded (thank you Serena) and it’s an amazing reference as so quickly we forget the ground we’ve actually covered and what experiences we’ve been very fortunate enough to enjoy.
Overall
This initial part of our UK tour brings us to all the nature spots researched before we left NZ, any “spare” time back at our accommodation is spent downloading images, deleting the rubbish and doing some postproduction on them, as well as necessary research in the general area we are visiting to attempt to see as much as we can.
We now have a lease car, which is making getting around significantly easier, although packing and unpacking is something of a military precision exercise. With both back car seats folded down every square inch is maximised. As we’re staying anywhere from ten days to a month it means the packing and unpacking is bearable.
Our models Kernow bear and Freda demonstrate the car packing Tetras
We have been shocked by the increase of UK’s cost of living (particularly food), in part due to Brexit, the impact of Covid and struggling economies, plus sadly the poor performing NZ dollar. This perspective of course was what we were seeking by travelling outside of our NZ bubble and has demonstrated the struggles are everywhere. We have however had amazing rich experiences particularly meeting, listening and talking to people along our journey (not rushing around helps) but have found folk to be welcoming, friendly and willing to share their lives with us.
Tips:
Airbnb’s are becoming controversial around the UK and Europe (Spain especially) as they are blamed for making long-term rental opportunities for locals scarce and expensive. However, as travellers, for us Airbnb’s provide affordable accommodation for an extended period with self-catering and longer stays discounts, plus the ability to do the never-ending laundry (never to be underestimated)!
Memberships in the UK have been invaluable. Before we left NZ we joined the National Trust (managed buildings and properties) and the RSPB (wildlife) and since arriving we joined English Heritage (castles) – with each membership on either the first or second visit we recovered the joining fees. There are also a few private residences managed independently, so you need to factor those entrance costs too. It does mean we’re a little selective about what amazing castle, palaces or places of interest we visit given we’re on a budget. Also, most castles are built on a standard pattern, meaning we target the historical and aesthetic.
Free entry and parking thanks to our Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) membership
Pasties, Pastries & Prawns
Cornwall & Devon
Memorial to the Cornish Tin miners at the Geever Tin mine museum
Ancestry research, tin mines, cliffs, daffodils, Choughs and history summarises the month spent mostly in the small village of St Agnes in Cornwall and Zeal Monochorum in Devon, both contrastingly different counties. Turned out St Agnes had one of the country’s oldest bakeries still working from its original site – and the food was amazing. Our first visit they sent us off with samples of sausage rolls which lasted us a couple of meals they were so big, but we also returned to purchase other pasties to try to sample a good part of their range.
The first couple of weeks was cold and exceptionally windy so walking along the Cornish Coastal Paths and steep cliffs at times deeply uncomfortable for those of us terrified of heights!
Wheal Coates on the North Atlantic, Cornish Coast
“Funny story, while at Godrevy Point, for the first time Rob went exploring the cliffs for Choughs, on discovering his camera bag on the cliff edge. I didn’t want to yell; in case Rob was hanging by his fingertips. Simultaneously, trying to remember the emergency number in the UK. Working very hard not to panic, I walked back up the hill to get a better viewpoint, and I spotted Rob laying in the grass looking at a Chough. Full of relief, I went back to his bag and moved it away from the cliff – no need to tempt fate.”
Pair of Choughs considering Wheal Coates as a nest site
However, this story shows how dangerous the cliffs can be. With the stark ruggedness of this dramatic countryside made even more visible with the industrial “wheals” (Cornish for work/working) of engine houses of the tin and copper mines located near mine shafts. Rob meanwhile was happy peering over cliffs in search of the Choughs (previously extinct bird and member of the crow family) who liked nesting on these craggy cliff tops. Fortunately, the weather settled and turned out rather stunning (reducing Serena’s fear of being blown off the cliff). Do not fear dear reader, Serena gains her revenge for Rob’s Achilles heel is water, or to be more precise being on it.
Well at least Rob isn’t hanging over the edge this time…
An amazing organisation exists called Kresen Kernow based in the nearby village of Redruth which has the largest collection of documents, books, maps and photographs relating to Cornwall’s past, Serena had learned of this and given a Great Grandparent had emigrated from Cornwall in 1920, was able to book for two half days spending time with ancestral “buddies” to help track this side of the family and learn about the lives of Cornish residents in Pendeen. Cornwall historically and even currently has a lot of poverty, and it was enlightening and humbling learning some of this family information, including working in the treacherous Levant Mine, plus a short sentence in the Bodmin Jail!
Inside the dry room at the Geever mine. This image was taken by Serena, and is a scene we discovered would be known to her Cornish relatives who worked at the mine.
The miners on the last working day at the mine left their working clothes in position, as an historical reminder and memorial to the men who made their living mining tin in Cornwall.
Wheal Mexico the oldest mine at Geever - we haven’t grown, this mine was carved out by children
Looking back on the Levant mine workings - the chimneys mark the location of beam engines used to pump water out of the mine. Some lodes of the tin ore stretch a mile out to sea, and were close enough to the seabed the miners could hear the raging sea pounding above their heads.
The chimney at the furthest back on the left of the images makes the location of the “Man Engine”, where in 1919, 31 miners lost their lives in what is considered to be one of the worst mining disasters in Cornish mining history.
In the mid ground the flattened buildings mark the location of the arsenic works. Arsenic was oftened found in the tin lodes, and was mined for use in cosmetics and poisons (I can’t help thinking those two uses should not contain the same material). The arsenic bearing ore was roasted and the pure arsenic would condense on the walls and was carved off by men wearing scarves over their mouths.
If you look on the cliffs you can see the rocks are coloured blue and green, this is not a mistake in editing the image, but rather evidence of the tin, arsenic and other elements, which still remain in the mines.
Slowly the industrial ruins above ground are being occupied by nature. Here a Kestrel searches the ground for a tasty meal.
More evidence of nature reclaiming the mine workings, an Adder basking in the warm spring sunshine at Godrevy Point.
Meanwhile Rob was attempting to locate and photograph Choughs …
Did someone say Chough?
Minack Theatre – An historical open-air theatre on the Cornish Atlantic coast and the vision of one-woman Rowena Cade. We secured two tickets for the first early evening performance of the 2025 Spring, a one-man show of “Dracula the Vampyre”. Arriving early, we were able to explore the nearby beach complete with bathers (it was not warm, and we felt over dressed in jumpers, walking boots and coats, compared to those swimming) and walked down to the local church. The theatre is in the tiny village of Porthcurno, and we commented the area must be hard for locals during the summer season (glad we could enjoy the area, without adding to summer congestion problems). The performance was quirky, but very well done, making the most of the theatre’s architecture and lighting. It did get cool (but equally atmospheric watching the Dracula story unfold whilst looking beyond the cliff the setting sun and the misty cool air), we were grateful for our blankets, cushions, coats, hats and gloves.
Minack Theatre before and after the show
Alcohol
Cheers!
Gin, not just drinking it (although that is fun) but creating our own unique spirits with a gin making class at Tarquin’s Gin, Padstow. With a distinct blend of quality botanicals, we created two recipes: Serena’s “Kiwi summer”, and Rob’s “Cockney figgy pudding”. The whole distilling process was well explained, and with breaks whilst our creations distilled, were able to taste other Tarquin products and enabling us to completely relax. Although the Navy strength gin may have been a tasting too far, we were still a little tipsy when we sat down later to eat a delicious fish and chip lunch.
All the botanicals available and the stills used to our custom gins at Tarquin’s.
We were instructed to wait a couple of weeks for the spirit to ‘age’ and the subsequent tastings have been excellent. If there are gin makers reading our blogs and you looking for two recruits, then get in touch.
We returned to Padstow to a forecast sunny day, and it proved true allowing us to enjoy a stunning day out on a couple of hire bikes to explore the Camel Valley trail ending at Bodmin (visiting the old jail while there), before returning to Padstow. Along the way visiting the Camel Valley Winery, however from the trail to the winery was a very steep cycle up and back down again (so steep we walked the bikes on the return leg not trusting ourselves after two very nice glasses of bubbles).
Okay, okay you were expecting a glass of bubbles, but I bet your mouth is watering looking at those delicious scones. BTW, yes they were delicious and naturally eaten the Cornish way (ie cream on top).
Okay, okay - Serena bravely volunteered to taste the bubbles for you.
The island fortress of Tintangel was our first castle (think Iron age fort, rather than Norman castle) visit and it had been over 20 years since Rob visited last, he was pleasantly surprised at the changes and opening up of the island ruins as the bridge had since been added, it was however completely rammed with visitors and a one-way system operating.
King Arthur’s statue and the bridges to Tintagel ‘castle’
Devon was an unplanned stay as we’d become claustrophobic in our Cornwall Airbnb (which whilst a semi-modern, small converted garage was not really suitable for long stays), so left nearly a week early enjoying our next Airbnb in Devon, with the commencement of the spring native birds – including waking up to see pheasants wandering through the garden, and woodpeckers hanging off the bird feeder.
Male pheasant strutting his elegant stuff.
Norfolk via Stow-on-the-Wold
On the east coast of the UK is the tiny village of Denver and this part of the trip became the social hub meeting point. While planning our trip in NZ we had shared our plans with friends who wanted to catch up with us, which was absolutely lovely, and Norfolk turned out to be the popular location.
The first catch up was someone neither of us had met in person but we’d all been sharing cycling adventures with for a few years. We had made contact via Paul’s YouTube channel, while planning our first attempt at the Rapha Festive 500 back in 2020, and we had kept in touch ever since. We split our trip from Devon to Norfolk in half using Stow-on-the-Wold as a stopping off point, and Paul very kindly drove from his home in the Midlands to join us for a meal. The evening was a delight, lots of laughs and tears, but the nicest thing was it felt like we had known each other for years. Paul, very kindly paid for our meal, and the publican was preparing to close and pulled us all a free pint, while clearing the pipes. Cheers Paul, you are a real gent.
Rob, Serena and Paul enjoying an evening of cycling adventures and other tales
On to Denver, to meet with Sue and Gareth, friends Serena knew from her time in London back in 2009. Sue had found the accommodation in Norfolk, she had listened carefully to our needs and found a lovely place close to Sandringham, Snettisham and other places of natural interest. We spent Easter together and although I was a stranger to Sue and Gareth at the start, we finished the weekend as friends, a real treat.
Sue had made Easter very special for us by bringing all her little touches from home, it was all set up and waiting for us on our arrival
Gareth is also an avid wildlife photographer, so we all enjoyed our shared outdoor interests that also included “the boys” hanging out for a day in a nearby wildlife hide watching all numbers of interesting birds and behaviours. Gareth introduced us to Horsey Gap with large numbers of grey seals basking on the beach so close by, although it was a constant wonder to us the number of people attempting to get closer still with selfies with no regard to the disturbance or their own personal safety, just left us shaking our heads. We both returned to the hide on the anniversary of the loss of our beloved Ben and Jerry for quiet reflection and gentle mindfulness wondering where the past year had gone. Absorbing ourselves in nature for the day was medicine for our minds and broken hearts, concentrating on the various birds, which came visiting an education in bird identification and behaviour.
“Did you say I was cute?”
Sue and Gareth organised for the four of us a visit to Sandringham and the private Royal residence, it was a spectacular visit and just loved the private home and stunning gardens, you could visualise King Charles and his family enjoying the space and just “being” there. The Sandringham Church was also very impressive, and we walked along the path made famous every Christmas when the family attend services there.
Images from the Sandringham estate
Our time in Norfolk seemed to be the magnet for meeting those we had not seen for many years. Viv, another friend of Serena’s from her London days, came and stayed with us for a few nights. All we can say about Viv, was she is a real hoot and extremely nice person (not a surprise being a friend of Serena’s). Viv, sourced groceries for us and her stay with us. We had to travel to London on the day of Viv’s arrival and did not get home until late that night. Viv’s actions were even more special because the next day, we were going to have breakfast with a Uni friend of Rob’s (Nick and they had not seen each other for nearly 40 years). Again, Viv did not bat an eyelid – thank you Viv, your kindness made magic happen. Viv, Nick’s lovely wife Gretchen and Serena got on tremendously and chatted like they’d known each other for years, allowing Rob and Nick a long overdue catch up.
In return, we dragged Viv, from one natural history site to another, including Snettisham to witness the spring Spectaculars. What we didn’t realise at the time was we were infecting Viv, with the desire to see more and more nature. Sorry Viv, it is a potentially a permanent condition and could escalate into being prepared to sit by a cold riverbank in the faint hope of seeing a specific bird. It was when walking with Viv getting later in the evening (all the crowds had left after high tide and the passing spectacular) that we all saw wild deer and our first barn owl – was a super reward for taking our time and enjoying the post-crowd peace.
Remember this owl Viv?
Knots and Godwits take to the air as the tide rises at Snettisham
